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The Trappings of Tolinar: My notes on traps and security designs in Fortnite


The Trappings of Tolinar: My notes on traps and security designs in Fortnite

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  • The Trappings of Tolinar: My notes on traps and security designs in Fortnite

    July 24th. I've been hiding out alone in the woods.

    I can't get my hands on too many metal or complicated parts, so I've been making do out here. Those Husks are something else, but I've figured out a few tricks to trap them now, so it's getting easier. They aren't very bright, and I've been using that to my advantage as much as possible. I'll just write my discoveries down in my notebook.

    Some types of traps can be made from just trees and plants.

    It's a good idea to stockpile Duct Tape, made from Resin and Fibrous plants, because with a little Duct Tape, a few planks, and a bit of Twine, you can easily make Spike Traps for both walls and floors. You can make Duct Tape yourself, and then when you need some emergency traps, just chop down some trees and voila - you're in business.

    Wall Spikes are only as good as the wall they are on.

    Wall Spikes deal really high damage to Husks when they attack the wall. They have high durability, too - and given how fast their reload is, they can easily be one of the highest DPS traps in your arsenal. There's just one little catch - the wall has to be attacked, and sooner or later, it's gonna give way. In fact, the wall will probably break before the trap does. It's tempting to stick Wall Spikes on cheap low walls, just because they'll fit - but once the wall breaks, your trap is wasted. It's best to put Wall Spikes on really tough, high grade tensile steel walls. This gives you the best possible mileage out of the trap. I've had to make do with stone recently...

    Floor Spikes seem weak and costly, but there's a creeping advantage when you have lots.

    Floor spikes have pretty low DPS. Even with a high reload, it's still on the bad side. They're very durable, true, but what good is a trap that doesn't kill Husks?
    Well, what if it slows them down? What would you say then? That's right, even the nimblest Husks find themselves moving much slower over Floor Spikes. This not only gives you more time to react, but can help you aim, it can keep them in range of other traps longer, the list just goes on and on... generally, the more Floor Spikes you have deployed, the more effective they all are.
    Last edited by Tolinar; 09-23-2017, 12:44 AM.

  • #2
    If you choose good path in skills your wall is almost unkillable(building speed/ repair speed+ building health on top of building tier +1 talents- imo one of the most important ones in entire game) unless you don't repair it or just afk in base. I was able to do the base in second map that it did 2nd defense(I believe it's defense 6 or 7) all alone- I just did put 3 defenders and watched everything from above.
    One thing tho- you want to build a tunnel for ranged mobs to come closer/ fall in killroom or they will do the most damage, otherwise it's just purely game knowledge and basic understanding of what you can do with surroundings.
    For wallspikes I mainly used them(I have legendary) on small 1x3 fences on the 1st floor so they take dmg from front aswell and can be dealt with extremely easily.

    For metal parts I advice you play outlander or with outlander in your group and share some stuff- all they need to do is scavange all washing mashines and electrical devices and they have so many mechanical parts and bolts that it's thrown away off map.
    For the mobs guiding- you can do really good stuff if you watch and learn how they react to certain situations- mostly ramps- if you build them from top using floor foundation and you won't use normal wall you can block them- they won't try to destroy it, but will rather look for other entrance so you can look for it aswell and do some other killrooms or just play time.


    • #3
      July 26th. Finally made it to the suburbs.

      Lots of beds dot the landscape, but for some reason I am restless. I think I'll write down what I know about traps, in general, here in my notebook.
      Give me a moment to think...

      I've found sixteen distinct types of traps in my travels so far. They are all designed for either floor, ceiling, or wall use.

      But craftsmanship is all over the place. Some of these people are lucky not to get stuck to the duct tape! On the other hand, I have seen some masterpieces - even had a guy craft one for me. Now let me think... For Floor traps, there's Wooden Spikes, Retractable Spikes, Healing Pads, Patrol Wards and Floor Launchers, Player Launchers both Vertical and Horizontal, and Defender Pads. Wall traps include Wall Darts, Wooden Wall Spikes, Electric Dynamos, Wall Launchers, and Wall Lights Arrays. For Ceilings, you can use Ceiling Zappers, Electric Field traps, Poison Gas traps and... I think that's about it. But people are coming up with new ways to kill Husks all the time. I imagine there could be new designs to report pretty much anytime.

      Traps all carry certain... similarities. You might call them base statistics.

      Almost all traps have a reload time... after the trap fires, it has to reset. Traps also have an arming time, but this has nothing to do with the moment you place it. Rather, when the trap detects a valid target, it takes a second to arm - literally. The arming delay on almost every trap is exactly one second. This is really useful if, say, a large group of Husks are walking onto Retractable spikes... it won't fire when the first one sets foot on it (and only hit one Husk). It will take 1 second to arm first, then fire - and probably hit most of them. Some traps deal damage. Well, some traps don't. And almost all traps have a Crit stat. Well, Critical doesn't just apply to the damage. The percent effect also applies to the Impact of the trap. Sorry, I'm getting ahead of myself. Impact causes Husks to stagger, become stunned, even fall down. So, if say, a Wall Lights Array were to critically hit, it would cause a lot more Impact than usual. Same idea with Launchers. Finally, all traps have a Durability. It decreases by 1 every time the trap fires!

      Understanding the base stats of a trap, and its special effects, is the key to grasping its potential.

      Here are some formulas that I find handy:
      • Trap Firing Rate = Reload Time + Arming Delay (usually 1 second)
      • Trap DPS = Damage / Firing Rate (note some traps are special, like Wall Spikes and the Poison Gas trap)
      • Trap Duration (Estimated) = Firing Rate x Durability (assuming it fires constantly)
      • Total Trap Damage = Damage x Durability
      • Trap Damage (estimate) = (Base Damage + (Crit Chance * (Estimated Damage + (Crit Damage percent x Estimated Damage)))) * (1+ (Player Tech Stat / 100))
      Whew! Sorry, went to mathland there for awhile. I'll try to focus.

      As for special effects... Well, like I mentioned last time, Wall Spikes fire when their wall is attacked, so they can 'fire' extremely rapidly. But they take durability damage with each hit too. Floor Spikes slow down Husks. Floor and Wall Launchers cause Husks to stagger after they have been launched, usually. Dart Traps fire across 3 tiles and can hit up to 6 different Husks - it's a favorite of mine! Wall Lights stun Husks. A Wall Dynamo, can blast any number of Husks if they are close enough when it goes off. So can a Ceiling Electric field, and it zaps a 3x3 area. But a Ceiling "Zapper", only hits one Husk - but WHAT a hit! Poison Gas traps actually "fire" for several seconds, and a Husk that is hit will take the listed damage, every second, for several seconds! I also have reason to suspect they can hit several tiles vertically. Patrol Wards keep roaming Husks from showing up uninvited, in the controlled area.

      I feel sleepy now. I think I'll just take a quick nap in this pile of magazines.

      If Husks wake me up, at least I'll have ammo.


      • #4
        That's terrific, keep going, it's put up in a lovely narrative way and full of goldnugget of information!
        Great work!


        • #5
          Wow this helped me out alot! Keep giving more advice if you have any!


          • #6
            July 29th...I've made it to Plankerton. Just one little problem.
            My storm shield didn't come with me.

            I've had to stall for time. Fortunately, there are ways to stall. I've had to figure them out one by one, the hard way, or get flushed from safety once again.

            Husks move a consistent speed for the most part, of just over 0.5 tiles per second. The smaller ones are a lot quicker. It's tough to outrun them unless I sprint - and then I can easily put some distance between us.

            But if I really get in a pinch, the best thing I can do is to quickly build a wall between us. It only takes a split second, and it forces the Husk to go around, which costs it time. The stupider ones may even stop to attack the wall. Combine with a chokepoint, such as a ramp, and I can ensure my escape. Husks are really smart when it comes to efficiently smashing through defenses - but for some reason, they can't operate doors. If I get in a jam, I can duck into - or out of - a house. They can't even hit me on the other side of the door. Then I can knock down a wall if need be, to facilitate an escape. Even better, I can take the moment of entering a house, to build more walls inside the house. By quickly creating a patchwork of low walls and barriers, I can kill the Husk before it can even reach me.

            I've learned, though, that there are some Husks you don't want to run straight away from.

            Pitchers are inaccurate, but if they get behind you, you should bob and weave a bit. More deadly are Propane Husks - their aim is better than you would think. Naturally, if a Blaster is behind you, you should duck behind cover... their aim improves with every shot once they start firing, so getting behind anything or throwing up a wall is essential. And there are two enemies you should always turn and fight. Dwarves are frail and weak, but fast as the devil. They can jump extremely high and run extremely fast, so a better solution is to turn and swat them with anything - even a pickaxe if need be. Then there's the Taker. They fill me with dread, but bitter time has taught me the correct course of action: Stand my ground and fight. I don't want to think about those right now, though. I'll come back to them later.

            I found blueprints for two objects that I consider invaluable for evading Husks, and they both involve prior preparation. They're the Horizontal and Vertical Jump Pads. I found them just as I was leaving Stonewood.

            The Vertical Jump Pad launches you two tiles into the air. If placed on the edge of a tile, you can perfectly land on the top of the next tile, 2 tiles up. It's quite a neat little hopping device. And vertical distance will keep all the Husks at bay, except those ones you shouldn't run from anyway. You only need to set up the tool. I've even been practicing a very quick emergency deployment, to get onto rooftops of nearby houses. Who knows - it might keep me alive someday.

            The Horizontal Jump Pad is even better. When you step on it, it launches you forward 4 tiles in a half second. This will easily let you escape any enemy. By setting up 2 launchers some 5 tiles apart from each other, you can simply jump between them and keep the Husks running while you shoot them to bits at your leisure. They have a second benefit too.

            I figured out a way to combine the two Jump Pads to slingshot myself quite a great distance - and it's safe, too. Mostly.

            First I set up a tower of walls, and use Jump Pads to climb it. At the top, I set up a Horizontal Launcher and whoosh - I'm off. Horizontal Launchers feature an inertial dampener that cancel any fall damage you might take when you first touch the ground. It doesn't even matter how far or fast you travel. I have built towering sniper turrets and put a Horizontal Launcher on top, and sent myself careening hundreds of feet across the great cityscapes with nary a scratch. Oh - but a Caveat.... watch where you land. One must not drag their feet. If you were to trip over even a pebble as you flew, it would use up the inertial dampening. Then you would still have your momentum and - let me just say, it wasn't very high the last time I clipped a bush coming down, but I nearly broke my leg. Land clean, or land...messy.

            But of course, the best way to delay the enemy is with nice, hard walls and nice, hard bullets.

            I've been studying the different types of Husks, now that I am better at avoiding them. The scrawny ones sure can rip you up, but those little arms are hardly suited to breaking down walls. In fact, I'd estimate they only do about 10% their Melee damage to walls. I guess they just lack the bulk. In fact, if there are spikes or a BASE attached to the wall, it's high odds they'll destroy themselves before they get anything significant done, unless there's a fair swarm of them.

            The Husky husks, meanwhile, have no such troubles. They pound walls just as hard as they pound humans. They also have loads more HP and they're tougher to knock around. All things considered, they're bad news. But they're really... stupid. Sometimes I see them just lose interest in someone they are killing, and go wander off to attack some door. Their attacks are really slow, too. Quicker fighters shouldn't have trouble.

            Pitchers don't seem to damage walls as much as people either. I'd say maybe 1/4 the damage. Lobbers, meanwhile, are quite at home blowing up walls and ceilings. I try not to get hurt by the other ones. It's... not really worth getting a good comparison. Dying, I mean. But I may get that comparison anyway. Lately there are more of them. And more Husks in general.

            If my Storm Shield doesn't arrive soon, I may need to get creative to deal with these things.

            Let's hope I am still alive to be creative.
            Last edited by Tolinar; 07-29-2017, 06:07 AM.


            • #7
              BS... traps with 0% crit chance do not crit... I mean.....

              I don't even buy that critical hits increase impact.


              • #8
                Originally posted by Punchinello View Post
                BS... traps with 0% crit chance do not crit... I mean.....

                I don't even buy that critical hits increase impact.
                It seems like you just want to complain that your floor launcher rolled with Crit chance. I don't have time to lecture you...


                • #9
                  I do have a crit bonus on mine. But the crit % remains 0 no matter what.

                  I doubt that critical hits (if even possible on certain traps) increase impact.

                  Maybe a developer could chime in?


                  • #10
                    This was great! An entertaining read and some very useful info I was not aware of!

                    No entries after 29th June though! I guess the husks got im'!


                    • #11
                      Still alive... but just barely.
                      Fortunately the automated defenses seem to be enough.

                      I've been healing after a propane Husk snuck up on me. I'll write an entry about that soon.
                      Once I can stay awake for longer than a few minutes.


                      • #12
                        August 19th... it hurts so much to move.

                        Those husks managed to catch me off guard. I was studying the way they think, and I made significant breakthroughs. But then there was a setback. And I had to lay down. For about three weeks.

                        I've got a good idea of how the Husks think now, though.

                        And they all think differently. Understanding what they are trying to do, what their goal is, allows you to manipulate them to the fullest and make the most of your defenses.

                        Husks never notice traps. They are oblivious. They also can't see through walls, so they don't know what is behind them - with the exception of a Target.

                        Husks are able to lock on to threats and use the atmosphere somehow to sense them. The only way to make them lose track of you, is to move into an airtight area. Once you touch open air, they will know where you are again. Atlases, Lars' van, or people doing serious damage - threats get locked onto. Somehow, traps are never assumed to be threats. It can only be a good thing.

                        First things first - the Shamblers. They aren't very bright. Their first goal is to get close to their target. Then they try to attack anything that's already damaged. Finally, they'll just pound through whatever is in their path.

                        Shamblers will aggro on players that simply get too close, but will give up on pursuing a player after a short time. However, in this span of time, you can run them around a loop of low walls while shooting them for a stall tactic effective versus small numbers of Husks.

                        Then there's Huskies, or Big Guys. They are similar to Shamblers, but frequently change targets and pursue whatever is harming them the most.

                        It's likely that Shamblers follow a similar behavior, but have so little HP that you can't get their attention. For a few seconds, Big Guys will even chase targets they can't possibly reach, such as moving towards a distant sniper or someone up on a building. After a brief time, they will reset to their previous target. They can actually be attacking a player, lose interest, and decide to find something more dangerous if the player is not inflicting any serious damage.

                        Some of the big ones are carrying Propane Tanks. They're dangerous. Trust me, I know. And they're clever with their tank, too.

                        People sometimes call them 'sploders, but I just call em' Propane Husks. Understanding what they will do with their tank is the key to handling them safely - get it wrong and it really hurts. If they are too far away to throw their tank, and you shoot and kill them, the tank will drop and you can light it at your convenience. Or you can light their tank from a safe distance with a bullet and they will explode, taking nearby foes with them. But, if you are standing too close and you light their tank, they will immediately try to throw it. Shoot them in the head quickly to make them drop the tank or cancel their toss. No matter the case, if they get close, your only chance is to draw a pickaxe and knock the propane tank away, so it's much better to take them down right away; they are a highest priority target.

                        Pitchers will try to strafe around from a middle distance. They don't care much about attacking a target so much as attacking players. They love annoying distracted players, but will try to dodge if they are getting attention.

                        Cover is your best friend when dealing with this and other enemies. If you have a clear line of sight to shoot, they can probably hit you with their pitch, and they are shockingly accurate if you stop moving, so either keep moving or duck behind cover. if you wait for them to wind up, and then step to the side, you'll get a free moment to counterattack as their shot misses.If you are staying on the move, this is only a middling priority enemy - one or two isn't that bad, and if you let them be, they don't damage the walls too much, but if they accumulate they can kill players quickly... so don't let them get out of hand.

                        Hive Husks approach to middle distance while tracking bees like mud. At medium range, they broadcast big, painful clouds of bees that are tough to avoid and shred shields. If getting into cover is a good idea with Pitchers, it's a bad one for Hives.

                        Just shoot them in the head quickly while strafing them, and keep moving. Retain distance, and avoid backtracking or you'll end up in the bee clouds. The tick damage from bees isn't too bad, but it keeps shields from regenerating, making them troublesome for soldiers and some ninjas, and bad news bears for Constructors. Once the hive breaks off, they aren't any better than an average Shambler. Their bee cloud is technically a projectile, and it can even be fired up and down. Once fired, that area is going to cause damage awhile, and there's nothing you can do except move away. Hives frequently stop to shoot and are not in a hurry to approach, but move directly to players and ignore other targets for the most part. Traps are a very good way to handle this guy.

                        Lobbers like to get back into cover, behind corners and walls, and throw skulls at the first player or piece of building that is within range.

                        If denied cover they will be standoff-ish, trying to wiggle away from damage while throwing Skulls every now and then. They are generally aggressive towards the base and will sometmes neglect nearby players to bombard the base itself, but any players near the base will draw its skulls and both may get hit.Chasing a Lobber will cause it to retreat with some caution, but they are frail enough that they usually won't get to make their escape. If your base is larger, or taller, or has a proper ceiling, they are a low priority, because these factors will make it tough to bombard the target effectively. On the other hand, smaller bases with poor ceilings, in particular badly defended Lars' vans and data caches, will potentially take damage directly from a lobber. In those cases, eliminate them right away.

                        Dwarves charge the player. All they care about is causing harm. And while they are none too sturdy, they are shockingly nimble and clever.

                        Dwarves will usually try to jump directly behind a player, sometimes quickly hopping onto their head to make the final distance. They can jump 2 panels tall and several panels wide, meaning that escape, if even possible, is a questionable plan. The best answer is to attack them directly, with a melee weapon or a shotgun, depending.

                        Blasters try to line up long range shots. At first their accuracy is terrible, but the longer they shoot, the better their aim gets, until dodging is impossible.

                        You either need cover, or to knock them off their beat with a weapon that has some decent impact. The natural answer is a sniper rifle. Aim not for the eyes but for the mouth.

                        Smashers move towards targets, using basic attacks to level defenses, until a player gets too close. Then it will charge that player like a bull, trucking anything in the way.

                        If you can fight a smasher from a distance, or with other defenses like traps, it's more ideal than running out of your base to fight it - that will pull it straight into your base.

                        Takers decide which player is most dangerous and then will go after them. Sometimes they suddenly jaunt to the side, especially right after they are significantly hurt. They are exceedingly painful, so it helps to be bright.

                        If a Taker rises into the air, it is about to perform a very damaging charge. Otherwise they traverse the battlefield quickly, trying to reach their prey. You can move onto the other side of a wall to force the Taker to phase through. This will delay it while you once again change rooms. And if a Taker is about to charge, you should carefully time a large sidestep-and-jump to get out of the way. But the best possible plan is to stun it. Use Wall Lights or an effective melee weapon to inflict a stunning blow, and then it's easy to take out.

                        Flingers run from you and throw things. They take a lot more melee damage, but hardly any damage from ranged guns. Did I mention they run from you?

                        Flingers fight in a very cowardly fashion. Time is your friend here. Try to outmuscle it, blow for blow. And try to stop its flow of generic enemies! Whether it is nearby or far away, keeping it from lodging Husks on your roof will save you time and energy later.

                        There are other, nastier things too. I've seen them, and I'm thinking.

                        There must be a way to take those out, too. But for now... so sleepy. More rest.


                        • #13
                          August 20th. The automated defenses are wearing out. But it still hurts to move.

                          I need to replace, upgrade, or antiquate them soon. I find myself relying on them to live; I'm too hurt to be mobile. But at the same time, my supplies are dwindling. I need to be efficient, because hard work is off the checklist.

                          I've taken to hiding out in high places, and I have seen quite a few messy things from up here.

                          It's not very difficult to build a tower by alternating sides on a U-Staircase, and when combined with some pillars or trellises for additional support, I can get up somewhere out of reach fairly easily. Only flingers are a real nuisance from up here. I hate those guys, so so much. If I build eight or nine panels away from any objectives or targets, it doesn't seem to cost towards the build limit, either, and it means I don't have to aim straight down. It seems to be a healthy overall plan to not be where the Husks are trying to hammer their way into.

                          High quality healing pads are really, really, really expensive to craft. I can make a cheap one for a fraction of the cost. It's not more efficient in HP recovered, though... except if I upgrade my cheap pad a whole lot.

                          But I just can't get around enough to harvest the plants. Maybe if I had saved a few instead of making them all into duct tape. Then I wouldn't be so seriously injured right now... Note to future self, don't use up ALL your plants. It's not like I am using the flower petals or bacon for anything anyway.

                          I'm running low on nuts and bolts, and planks, too. They seemed so plentiful before I started seriously relying on traps.

                          But now that I depend on them, I find that a lot of different trap designs overlap in their specific need for either planks, or nuts and bolts, or both. So I have to be efficient with those two crafting supplies. Nuts and bolts are especially tight - if I use them all up on traps, I can't make more bullets, which can get very, very bad. I've started figuring out exactly where to look to get more. My top four places to raid are kitchens, garages, power transformers and parking meters. If I had more time, I could simply run around the edges of the map, where they tend to be littered here and there - but that takes more time and energy than I can spare...

                          Wall spikes don't use up many planks. But they sure go through the duct tape, and using them makes me nervous.

                          Somehow, allowing the hordes to beat down my walls just to kill them sounds like a bad plan - it might work, but if it fails, it'll fail spectacularly. I need something more reliable.

                          Wall Launchers have been my new best friends. They're useful and efficient in a variety of ways.

                          If you can use a Wall Launcher to shunt a Husk off a cliff, or into a pit with no stairwell, and it has no ranged attack, it will just die. I've also noticed that you can shove Husks into walls and ceilings from point blank, and it will take damage. Some kind of kinetic impact. Though, as to exactly how useful this is, I would say it's not spectacular. I would rather rely on something a bit more lethal. But I mainly use Floor launchers for another reason.

                          In addition to stalling Husks, Floor Launchers tend to clump Husks up - which means that area traps like retractable spikes and Dynamos tend to hit more foes.

                          In this way, I can get additional mileage out of traps. Having to replace them less often means I can stay off my back and just write in my journal from a sniper tower instead. I am a fan of that. But I'm not a fan of how demanding they are, in terms of costing both Planks and Nuts and Bolts. I'm also not a fan of their low durability, long reset time, and varied "quality", with the many low-value modifiers. And I've seen many novice designs that revolve around launching Husks up and then into some kind of trap higher up there.

                          But none of those Floor Launcher combo designs work. Ever. So for the most part, I avoid building Floor Launchers.

                          They all seem to fail because of the one second delay it takes for a trap to arm. As a result, flinging them up into a wall launcher, or a Dynamo, or anything really, just doesn't work. Your best bet, if you find a Floor Launcher, is probably just to fling them up into a ceiling - possibly a slanted one, to push the Husks away a little.

                          Those clouds in the distance bother me... I think something big is coming.

                          I need to have my "A" game ready. The biggest danger yet seems to be out there on the horizon.

                          Last edited by Tolinar; 08-20-2017, 07:55 AM.


                          • #14
                            Side note to myself: Research on the new device is going smoothly.

                            Capacitive methods seem limited in effectiveness, but a gravimetric approach is working fine. The wall-attached version seems the most stable.

                            It's able to measure hostility in the atmosphere based on temperature, pressure, mass and piezoelectric changes, as hatred is absorbed into the water vapor.

                            I call it an Aggrometer. If it works, it will save lives.


                            • #15
                              More Trappings, yay! Can't wait for more.
                              As for this device, which source of hatred does it measure from? *shudders*