Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Trappings of Tolinar: My notes on traps and security designs in Fortnite

Collapse
X

The Trappings of Tolinar: My notes on traps and security designs in Fortnite

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    August 22nd. My Aggrometer design thread is up and alive, and over here. I just need more help for it.

    I'm able to move around a little better now. But most of my time has been spent at a blackboard, where either I am studying the hatred quantity of some unknown Husk, or I am pounding out the theory and practicality of solid base design.


    I am thinking about releasing short videos illustrating good ways to defend different types of objectives.

    I see a lot of inefficient, ineffective and ugly approaches towards basebuilding, and not enough thought going into a defense. Maybe the Constructors of the world will improve if they have some better examples...


    Understanding what you are defending, is a critical part of the defense.

    For example, when defending Lars' Van, you can't build a roof that would block the balloon from inflating... but you CAN build a roof a little higher up. When defending a data drop, you can build a roof as soon as it lands. This is basic, practical knowledge that anyone who plays should probably know.

    ATLASes have the smallest footprint. There are two basic defense shapes: The PLUS and the RING. They both have their good points.

    The RING is merely a 3x3x1 set of walls around the ATLAS with a ceiling and possibly a floor panel inside for a BASE. It takes 21-22 panels of resource, and it's best to use metal, to make it last as long as possible. The PLUS takes 4 fewer panels, and indents the corners instead.

    The RING shape is best for people who actively like to fight, for full teams, or if you have an internal constructor.

    It's a bit hard to navigate the PLUS shape from the inside, since you technically have to walk through the ATLAS to do it. Also, Husks attacking the walls of a RING shape will line up, making them an easy target for a gun, especially a piercing one. The shape is easy to understand and a snap to navigate, it is the least confusing.

    The PLUS is a good choice for Outlanders, Ninjas, people working with less help, or those who rely on traps.

    While slightly less space is defended by a PLUS shape, the walls are just as tough to break through. In addition, enemies walking into the "corners" of the plus will take damage from 2 traps, instead of just one. The pathing AI is also divided, meaning that five surfaces, not three, are generally focused on. It slows breaches down very slightly. The PLUS shape also makes it easier to break line of sight with powerful ranged mobs.

    This most basic decision - Plus or Ring? This is the crux of defense. But there are other designs too.

    You can use the floor panels around the ATLAS to construct a FLOOR RING of low walls. This also costs 8 panels and it's not really very durable or effective, but it is an option. You can spend 8 panels to put a PLUS in a RING, but this is bad for repair - the damaged walls can sometimes only be repaired from the outside, which can get dangerous, even if it's not difficult on such a small base. Finally, you can apply slants or roofs to slow enemies down further, which costs up to 8 blocks as well. These also obstruct inner repair, though.

    By layering a Plus, a Ring, a Floor Ring and some slanted ceilings, you can layer up an extremely tough base in a small area. But it won't actually be efficient.

    The popular term I see for it nowadays is "Sandwich". Somehow, players imagine that by building layer after layer of walls, they have the most efficient possible design. But let's examine the options. It takes 21 panels to build a RING, and 17 to build a PLUS. To build a 3x3 Sandwich, takes 45 panels minimum. The base is essentially in-traversible, you will probably need to edit the ceiling to start up the ATLAS. With a need for 450 Metal, you can't even upgrade it all to stage 2 - meaning that you're at a serious risk of a Smasher taking it out. Being unable to climb inside the base and safely repair it, the walls will break sooner or later. How much sooner or later?

    If the Husks just attack the middle, they only have to pound through three walls - two of which will be substantially weaker than average.


    And you paid 450 Metal for this "sandwich". You could have paid half that, or less than half, and got about the same ratio of protection - and then upgraded your design or built new defenses elsewhere. Only a handful of your 45 panels can functionally hold traps. I suppose you can layer them into the design more, but the layered traps will hardly see use on an inner wall. On the other hand, on a Plus design, 12 of 17 panels can hold traps and it is easy to set up a handful to get the job done efficiently, thanks to the plus-shaped design.


    It is almost always more efficient to exploit chokepoints, build artillery panels, construct cover or build a palisade than add another sandwich layer to your base.

    One or two hard walls on a slant can be really tough to knock through. In fact, with good design the enemy might have to punch through just as many layers as a "Sandwich", or even more.

    By installing panels out in the open, in areas Husks are likely to walk through, you can attach AOE traps like ceiling lightning traps or Wall Darts and efficiently cover a wide area. Putting down floor traps in areas Husks are sure to go, can slow them down and deal lots of efficient damage. You could build a funnel design, too, if you want to get crazy with traps. You can add low walls to obstruct Husk pathing and slants for cover, so gunfighters can attack and move freely. You could even construct a Sniper Turret with those 20 panels, and start taking things out from a safe distance - even outside the build limit range.


    There is no single magic design. The magic happens when you realize the Husks have a weakness from their situation - and use it to the fullest.

    And that there's the trick.

    Comment


    • #17
      Why are they already leaking the new canny campain?! ;)

      Comment


      • #18
        You wanna move this to another forum, pretty please?

        Comment


        • #19
          zapper hits full square, not jsut one target

          Comment


          • #20
            So, my thread is trapped. Hahaha.
            ... =/

            You guys deleted my Aggrometer design thread. It's nowhere now.

            And this is still languishing in Feedback.
            There's not too much to say except I'm disappointed.
            Last edited by Tolinar; 09-14-2017, 01:58 AM.

            Comment


            • #21
              I'm sorry for your loss.

              Comment


              • #22
                This is the best thread on the forum

                Comment


                • #23
                  Hooray, my thread got out of the dark!

                  September 22nd. I've figured out which traps are making those Propane Husks go boom.

                  It's the Ceiling Electric Field, the Wall Dynamo, and the Poison Gas trap. The others are fine. Sometimes I build a small steel frame out in the open with a Ceiling Electric Field, in an attempt to blow those guys up before they can do much damage.


                  Also, apparently those little dwarf Husks can't jump with sore feet.

                  If they're standing on Wooden Spikes, they can't leap to pursue a target - that definitely slows them down. But they can still leap over the trap to get you, so you need to have spikes laid over a fairly wide area to prevent them from scaling your walls with a leap and a bound.


                  As expected, Lightning Traps are really effective against Water Husks.

                  But they don't work well against Fire Husks at all. I am hard at work on a new ice trap design, but that type of localized refrigeration is challenging.

                  My Aggrometer design got wrecked in a freak accident. But there was a backup.

                  Let's just say it fell off the back of a truck. Shaped like an automatic wall-mounted flamethrower. Luckily I found a duplicate that another person had kept for me! I'm keeping my trap design notes in a separate place from the prototypes now.

                  Just wanted to touch base with everybody, after finally restoring communications after some time.
                  Last edited by Tolinar; 09-23-2017, 01:02 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    October 6th.
                    We've been having a Bash on 6th and Ghoul Street.


                    It's a wonderful time fighting the Horde out there, but there have been some complications, as always.
                    I thought I might take out my notebook and scribble down some notes. Just to join in, I guess.


                    Not all waves are created equal.

                    There are some especially nasty situations that come up out there, such as suddenly fighting lots of a specific type of monster. Knowing the best way to deal with these is... wise.

                    The Lobber Wave will require a dedicated repairman, just one.

                    When fighting loads of Lobbers, you are going to need an inside job - that is, one person inside the fort repairing like crazy as the damage rains down. The others can pick off Lobbers or chase them down. They tend to open fire on the first building in range... so one possible solution, is... decoy...

                    Handling a Propane Wave means having a welcome wagon.

                    You need to head out and meet these guys. You don't want so many booms near the base. It's bad for the paint job. In particular, remember that shooting them dead without hitting the tank will keep it from going off - but only if you are far enough away they don't throw the tank at you as they weaken.

                    There are other tough surprises, too.

                    Keep on your toes and be ready to change your plans at a moment's notice.

                    You can build anywhere, not just on the Teleporter.

                    You can set up bastions, sniper towers, or just quick-hop networks to move from base to base. Be efficient with your designs; it's not good to waste materials. But be brave in your ideas. Setting a hardpoint out in front of the enemy spawn with some good walls and a healing pad can preserve precious lives and time. Once the curtain rises on the round, your structure is no longer restricted to its footprint.

                    Don't know which skills to get first? Always let your play style be your guide.

                    Let me be more specific:
                    • Soldiers and aggressive types will start most matches off in total control. They can make do with the barest of weapons and the smallest of defenses. But as the match wears on, the enemies will become harder and harder to surmount with just a steady aim. Therefore, the important skills are the ones that raise your power as the match goes on. As for prep skills, of course, focus on the ones that get you the best possible weapon.
                    • Constructors and defensive types will struggle early on. There's just not enough supplies to build everything you want, and your weapon skills aren't quite powerful enough to just dominate out of the gate, so you could slip behind quickly. But the power of the BASE and the efficiency of the Constructor will let you snowball an early advantage. So, make sure you take enough starting nodes to have a great fort from Wave 1. In particular, having a big, tough and well-made enough base to lever your unique skills is really important.
                    • Ninjas and Outlanders can probably take a mix of the two, keeping in mind whether they have high Tech or not, as that influences the worth of traps, and high Offense or not, as that influences the worth of guns and ammo. Defensive players need a good foothold, so make sure to take early skills, while Offensive players will need to keep up as the game scales up, so they should take late-game skills accordingly
                    Plus or Ring: The Question returns.

                    And my answer remains the same. Depending on your class and personal play style, either a Cross or a Ring is the best build style.
                    Remember that you want tough material for the bottom layer, and something quickly repaired for a roof.
                    Of course, the presence of elements and special modifiers may change the right answers to this question.


                    There's no way to know which side of your Fort is the "Front".

                    But that doesn't mean you are completely clueless. Your base will be placed in one of four locations,though it may be rotated.
                    • To the Southeast, FLATS - a place where enemies appear suddenly, both above and below, from steep hills on two sides.
                    • To the Northeast, MINE - an area where enemies attack from multiple vantages and Z-Levels from the North and East. If you have a smaller base, they can appear above it.
                    • To the Northwest, VALLEY - A place where enemies approach from above in nearby hillsides, descending down towards your base.
                    • To the Southwest, HILL - a place where enemies approach from below in the south and west, via narrow passages.
                    If you are clever enough, you can use this information to determine some good design ideas.

                    Don't underestimate a good vantage point, or good cover.

                    I say this all the time, I know, But building something 2 or 3 Z-Axes up can give you a much better view of the battle. Your build limit lets you put a ceiling up there, right? Well, if you build stairs up to that ceiling... now you have one last floor to fight on =P Think outside the box, literally!

                    And there is no shame in fighting from INSIDE a fort, as opposed to in front of one. That's a different way to think outside the box - shoot out of it while inside. Novel, isn't it?


                    And some special notes for my fellow Constructors.

                    Conserve, conserve, conserve. Try not to repair walls when they need only 1 Material - wait for them to require 2 or more, then go ahead. Otherwise you can spend a surprisingly important piece of material on perhaps a tenth of its full potential.

                    Be bold; fix people's bad ideas. Outdoor stairs leading up to the top of a building without a solid roof is just inviting the damage. An unmaintainable sandwich of resources is only as good as the shmuck who built it - so rather than count on little jimmy's eagle eye, spend a little resource making nice, flat surfaces for traps. People make pyramids without accounting for traps, defenders, or anything really. Rather than chastise their Egyptian style, build around it.
                    Last edited by Tolinar; 10-06-2017, 10:38 AM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Ahh, awesome info as always. :)
                      Last edited by Axe Garian; 10-07-2017, 04:04 PM.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X